So, we had this idea that it would be great to do a warm up walk to get us in the mood for some california sunshine on the PCT! We dropped the car in Ravenglass on the south-west Cumbria coast, then a train and bus later we found ourselves in Threlkeld in North Cumbria with a plan to walk back to the car over four days.
Day one was gorgeous with a deep blue sky, cotton-wool clouds and early Spring sunshine on our backs. The fells were streaming with meltwater and the becks were gurgling excitedly. As we got onto the high ridges we crossed from green hills onto soft snow that still decorated the crags and gullies. Sunnies were the order of the day as the hot sun reflected off the white tops.
As we came off the ridge and down Sticks Pass towards Helvellyn hostel the more numerous clouds now scudded hurriedly across the sky hinting at what day two would bring.
We woke to the wind whipping at the eaves above the window and knew it would be a very different day. So much for california sun! By the time we were an hour in we were in full waterproofs being beaten back by a fierce wind and driving rain. As we ascended to meet the freezing point the rain turned to sleet then snow, and the spray off Grisedale Tarn was being whipped metres into the air. It really was a case of two steps forward and one back. On several occasions it was as much as we could do to stay upright. A couple descending passed us with a black labrador. A breed usually renowned for being all tails and tongues, even he looked soaked through and decidedly unnerved at the challenge of keeping all four paws on the ground.
We steady climbed over Grisedale Hause and down again, still fighting wind and rain, into Grasmere. There has to be a silver-lining on a wet day so we found ourselves tucked into a warm, cosy tea shop with hot chocolate, muffins and scones, before the last hour in the rain to Langdale hostel.